tailors notes

  •  

    Finding clothing that fit properly is a bit like meeting your true love- you just know. Okay, maybe the process isn't quite so romantic, but when you put on your clothes and they fit, you should feel a sensation of lightness.

     

  • suiting:

    The gorge is the distance between the shoulders of a suit and its first button. A measurement relevant both to fit and to style, the gorge determines how much room your chest and shoulders have in a jacket. Style wise, it determines how much of your tie and shirt show. Because fit and style combine to form flattery, slim men will benefit from a deeper gorge, as this will show more shirt and make them appear broader. Larger men look good with a shallower gorge, as this gives their midsection more coverage.

     

  • trousers:

    Though fashion conscious guys sometimes give pleats a bad rap, they've been a staple of men's tailoring for years and they're not going anywhere. Well placed pleats can camouflage extra weight and balance a man's proportions. They work well for broad and athletic body types. One pleat rather than two is enough for most men, lending a bit of camouflage and some leg width. Two pleats make a statement, unless you're careful that they fit impeccably and are executed in a gorgeous fabric.

     

  • shirt:

    Made to order shirt allows you to choose exactly the details you want, from cuff style and buttons to fabric and pattern. Basically, you get to play designer without worrying about messing things up. Made to measure shirts are ideal for men whose measurements are unusual a neck circumference or arm length that is larger or smaller than average.